Sunday, April 12, 2009

Semana Criolla Montevideo, Uruguay


This last week in Uruguay went by three names:
  • Semana Santa, as its known in most of South America in celebration of Easter.
  • Semana Tourismo, the secular government name for the week of vacation.
  • Semana Criolla, a week of rodeo and crafts in Montevideo.

There are two Semana Criolla rodeos in Montevideo, one in Parque Roosevelt and the other in Prado. The images shown are of the rodeo at the Semana Criolla del Prado.


The broncos come off of a pole instead of out of a shoot like North American rodeos. The riding talent was incredible. In addition to the rodeo there was a craft fair and barbecue.


Good YouTube video of Semana Criolla gaucho's
(From 2007 Semana Criolla del Prado)


Semana Criolla brings Uruguay's countryside to the city. A Montevideo blogger wrote that seeing these men from the countryside made him want to abandon his computer terminal and head for the outdoors.

Gauchos carry large knives in the back of their belts for use as a ready tool (or weapon).

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Historic Play in Montevideo March 26th - 29th

The Drama of the River Plate, is an original stage play about the clash between the German battleship Graf Spee and three British warships in 1939. This historical play, which will be performed in English from Thursday 26 March to Saturday 28 March 2009 at 9pm and on Sunday 29 March at 7pm. The performances will be at the Millington-Drake Theatre, Anglo Centre, San José 1426. The play is written and directed by Jonathan Lamb and will be performed by the London Touring Theatre.

The following is translated from the invitation: “This year will be seventy years since the pocket battleship Graf Spee and three British warships clashed in what would be the first naval battle of World War II in December 1939. For a few days, the Uruguayan capital became the center of the world. But the real story of the battle lies in the character of a man: Hans Langsdorff, the captain of the Graf Spee. Who was this man galante and trepidation? Why come to Montevideo? In 'The Drama of the River Plate' Langsdorff back to life and explains his actions.”

For tickets call 902-7634 or 901-8819
The ticket price is a donation of 180 pesos in aid of www.actorstouruguay.com

The play is sponsored by Lloyds TSB and Lloyds Private Banking. With thanks to the Anglo, Italia Fausta and El País.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Offerings made to African Goddess on the Beaches of Punta del Este


Some friends told me that each year on the night of February 2nd people gathered on the beach in Punta del Este (as well as other beaches in Uruguay) to make offerings to an African goddess known as Yemanjá. Punta has a large variety of special events held on the beach including runway modeling, concerts, and sporting events, but for some reason this bit of information about making offerings to an African goddess bent my paradigm about Uruguay. So, last Monday night (February 2nd) I went to the beach to investigate.

What I saw on the beach were lots of candles set in shallow holes in the sand or covered by plastic drink bottles with the bottoms cut off to shield their flame from the wind. Besides the candles, there were a few people performing rituals, playing drums, and making offerings of flowers and food. (In addition to flowers and food the goddess is said to like offerings of jewelry, make up, and mirrors.)

So my question to Yemanjá - “what’s an African goddess like you doing in a Catholic country like this?” As it turns out, Yemanjá is one of seven deities of an African pantheon who came to America via the African slave trade and became incorporated in the spiritual practices of African Americans in Brazil, Haiti, Cuba, and New Orleans. From there the Brazilian tradtion migrated to Uruguay.

Yemanjá is the Queen of the ocean and represents the feminine aspects of creation and motherhood, as well as being a patron deity who has the ability to watch over fishermen and shipwreck survivors. (The short street version is that Yemanjá can grant wishes to those who give her an offering. I was told that you could ask for anything you wanted, but that it was not advisable for young women to ask for love, because Yemanjá has a reputation of keeping men of interest for herself.)


According to Wikipedia, Yemanjá is also known as,Iemanjá or Janaína in Brazil, where she is observed by the Candomblé and Umbanda religions. (In New Orleans Voodoo the goddess is known as Yemalla or Yemana.)